“If a man had only one day to spend in Sicily and asked what
is there to see, I would answer without hesitation: ”Taormina”,
wrote the French man Guy de Maupassant more then a century ago.
And explained: It’s a painting this village, but a painting
in which you will find everything which seems to be made on this
earth, to seduce the eyes, the spirit and the imagination.It’s
a terrace suspended in the blue, this village, embraced from the
ridges of Mount Tauro. They had a good instinct the Greek, when
they built the acropolis (205 meters above sea level) and a theatre
which, for natural scenery, is more delightful then the same model
of Epidauro in Greece. In the background the bay of Naxos, the first
colony in Sicily, is at night adorned with thousands of lights,
and Mount Etna covered with snow for five months of the year, offers
eruptions to the spectators of an unexpected program of suggestions
and spectacularity.
The sea, the snow and the almond
trees in blossom. “For the tourism of the modern era”,
remembers the journalist Gaetano Saglimbeni in his album of Taormina,
published under the Flaccovio imprint, “Taormina was born
in winter and maintained a tourist winter resort for nearly a century:
in summer even, a lot of hotels were closed. Afterwards followed
a reversal, and now the boom is in summer, with high aims also for
spring and autumn.
It’s the tourism of planned
holidays, the organized trips and the charter flights. Those who
plan their holidays in Italy and in foreign countries know, that
the summer in Taormina is the longest one from Europe: Here the
beaches are full from March to October. The winter is still the
season of the isolated travellers, which (to make us understand)
can go on holiday whenever they like. Also today, as in the times
of Rockefeller, the Morgan, the Vanderbilt, industrial magnates,
financial tycoons, famous writers, painters, musicians come here
to spend winter. Instead of the big hotels, a lot of them prefer
the villas in the green: they were once upon a time tied to the
names like Orazio Nelson (the famous English admiral which “on
the mast of his boat hollowed out his coffin”), Earl Marzotto,
Cini, duke of Caraci, Paternò Castello; and others which
were here recently, on the sea and the hill, in magic sceneries.
“Taormina has to be enjoyed
in winter” writes Saglimbeni from Taormina: “when the
soft, clear and transparent air seems to bring closer the incredible
Mount Etna; when the green of the gardens is greener, more intense
the colour of the flowers and the cascades of the geraniums and
the bougainvillea hide everything.”
The American playwriter Tennessee
Williams said: “Taormina is so beautiful, stupendously and
overbearingly beautiful, that neither the vandalism of men can destroy
it. It’s is a miracle that nature still succeed to hide it.”
The “Corso Umberto”,
in a way the big living room of Taormina, is already animated in
the first hours of the morning. Couples strolling hand in hand,
linger in front of a shop window (where you can by everything from
embroidery to beat iron, from wood sculptures to souvenirs), writing
postcards in the bars on the piazza. In the afternoon they go till
to the top of the Greek Theater, to enjoy the spectacle of the sunset
(as did the French André Gide, in a black cloak and floppy
hat). Tomorrow they will walk towards Castelmola, to carve their
names in a tree. Or they go down to the sea: only a little bit of
sun let already populate the bays of Isola Bella, Mazzarò
and Spisone, also in winter.
“The bay of Isola Bella”,
explains Saglimbeni, “is still the one of Goethe and the Kaiser.
The couples in search of solitude prefer this one more then the
sophisticated beaches of Mazzarò and Spisone. They spin the
motorboats away. The tourists still prefer the old fisher boats,
to make excursions to the Grotta Azzurra, to the rocks of the Capo,
to the Lido of Naxos….”
“The darkness”,
concludes the journalist and writer, “still surprises the
lovers on the rocks, while the first lights starts to punctuate
on the sea, from Capo Spisone to Giardini, till to the Cyclops in
Acitrezza. The streets in Taormina in the night, scented with bougainvilleas,
which covers the walls of the old houses, under the reflection of
the streetlamps seem like cascades of pearls.”